ND mule auction takes in $21,000 for investigation

•MANDAN, N.D. — Officials in North Dakota’s Morton County say they made $21,000 from selling mules that were seized in a North Dakota animal abuse case. The county sold 22 mules in an auction at Triple H Miniature Horse Rescue near Mandan. Morton County Sheriff Dave Shipman says the proceeds will go toward costs of the investigation and rescue. Officials in Morton and Burleigh counties seized more than 150 horses and mules from properties belonging to William Kiefer in January after finding 96 dead animals on property northwest of New Salem and three more dead on pasture east of Bismarck. Kiefer has been charged with several counts of animal mistreatment in both counties. He pleaded not guilty March 5 to five misdemeanor counts of animal cruelty in Morton County and has not entered pleas for similar charges in Burleigh County. He faces up to five years in prison if convicted on the Morton County charges. He is scheduled to make his first appearance in both counties on March 20.

Quotes:

"Never send a man to do a horse's job."
Mr. Ed



 "Housework can't kill you, but why take a chance?"  Phylis Diller

FROM THE MAIL BAG: 

Hi Cindy,
I have a 3 year old mule that I have raised from one of my mares. I am used to training horses and he is my first mule. My first question is that he has a bit of an attitude. He can sometimes get in my " space" and can be a bit obnoxious ( ear pinning, grouchy look) when
he is approached to be petted. This happens only while he is standing at the gate that I go through to feed everyone.

Cindy's reply:  A mule or horse getting into your space is recognized as spoiled behavior simply because you have allowed your young mule to crowd you.  Allowing your mule to come closer than arm's length is considered to be crowding into your space.  In the herd, the
herd boss corrects obnoxious behavior by stretching their neck out first, pinning the ears back, showing teeth as to say "GET BACK!"  If needed, the herd boss will send out the offender by chasing it away.  I am not saying that you cannot bond or connect with your mule, but you do need to have this respect and boundary issue worked out.  I believe mule's are more personable than horses are.  They have a code to live by and you better know it.  So you determine when you want your mule to be close to you - as in your space.  There will be times when you should not let your mule into your space so that is why you want to train your mule to respect boundaries. Your mule's behavior at the feeding gate is common when animal's anticipate being fed.  I would work with your mule on a lead line or lead rope
and a crop.  I would do this excercise a few times before applying the technique at the feeding gate.  Simply place your hands on his side and ask him to move over.  Move him to the right, switch sides and move him to the left.  Take the end of your lead rope and touch his hindquarters with it, so that he moves his hindquarters away from you.  Repeat this on both sides.  If your mule is not responding - you can use your crop to convince
him he must move away from you when asked.  Ask him to back up, go forward and whoa.  Do not allow him to rub on you or come into your space, because you are establishing control and leadership.  You can be pals later - work has to come first. Now that your mule is responding to moving away (yielding) from you, backing up, moving forward, whoa when asked - you can apply this strategy inside the feeding gate.  Take your crop with you and encourage your mule to stay back.  Tell him to back away just as you had previously worked
on.  If he needs a swat on the side to move him back - then do it.  Do not tolerate any kicking behavior what so ever.  I have seen this behavior in horses and mules that have been hand fed and it is very ugly.  So, if you are hand feeding your mule, this would be a good time to stop until you establish boundaries. 
 
Another caution about animals greeting you at the gate:  mules and horses are jealous creatures and since there is a hiarchy, the low guy in the pecking order is at risk for getting hurt as well as the handler.  It is not fun to have a horse kick out or run into your mule while you are in the line of fire.  The mule will run over you or do what ever it takes to protect himself - and getting run over or dragged is not a good situation.   Be on your
guard and clear the gate area first. 
 
GET YOUR COPY NOW- ANSWERS TO YOUR MULE QUESTIONS BY CINDY K. ROBERTS

Cindy, Thank you for taking the time to answer my questions. The thoughts and experience with which you address our concerns are greatly appreciated.

When I pushed her yes I did have spurs on and I do believe she did tighten her ribcage. She does that when I’m putting the saddle on her and a blanket over her to keep her warm. I don’t believe I’m too big for her as I am 200 lbs and she is a rather big mule, 15 hands. I believe the saddle fits her as well. As of her breeding we were told that she is part Appaloosa and she shows just a little bit of that color. She is not too thin in the chest maybe a little over average and she has good strong legs. So I don’t know what other breeding she would have besides the Appaloosa. Of course than there is the Jack burro as the sire.

Yes, we do want your book and the bridle. If the bridle will help me get back on her I would have use of it as I am hesitant even now of doing that.

We have six dogs and my wife did say at the beginning that she would be somewhat like working with a dog.

Thank you again; with regards; Mr. Tom.

 FIRST TIME LOADING
Hello Cindy,
I loaded my mule in the trailer for the first time and it didn’t work according to “plan.” She
didn’t want to have anything to do with that trailer so I put some grain on the floor. She
would eat as far as she could without having to take a step. I never knew a mule could
stretch their neck that far, but she did. I finally put a butt rope on her and after she reared
up a time or two, she leaped in. She didn’t want to go back in the trailer after the ride
either. I don’t want her to get hurt in this process. Once she was in the trailer, she fretted
and pawed. I hate to see her upset. She is three and is a sweetheart. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. By the way, your web site is sensational! I could be stuck on it for days (on my work computer) but my boss would not appreciate that so I can only peak at it around lunch time. Thanks Debbie

Hello Debbie,
A simple trailer introduction would be to back your trailer to the paddock, leave the door open and feed your mule in it every day for a few days. This makes the trailer a part of your feeding routine and your mule won’t mind getting in and out. If this is not an option, work with loading her and unloading her on a routine basis. By that I mean take your time, allow her to look around, sniff the floor and encourage her to come forward—when the time is right. Reward and praise her should she make an effort. It may be one leg up and then she may back out. That is OK. When she proceeds to back out, go with her, don’t tug or
pull on the rope. Circle her, walk her up, back, and when the timing is right, proceed to the trailer again. If you lose the forward motion, back her up and work her in small circles to the
right and left. Sometimes this will work because the mule decides that standing in a trailer requires less effort than to do ground work. Just remember, this technique does not work on all mules. Most mules that are new at loading will get in willingly after they have checked out the trailer and you took the time to work with them without putting on pressure. 

Having a pasture mate in the trailer helps too. You didn’t mention what type or kind
of trailer you had. Mules and horses load better in trailers that have wide entrances to them. Make sure your trailer is wide and tall enough for the comfort of your animal. Cramming a large animal in a small trailer will sour them for sure. Also place floor mats in the trailer with shavings. This will help keep your mule from slipping and it will make her more comfortable.
Sometimes you will have to load an animal and you don’t have time for a trailer introduction. I like to keep a 20 foot long cotton rope with a stainless steel snap on one end. Tie off one
end to a tie ring inside the box of your trailer and snap the other end on to the mule’s properly fitted strong halter. That way the mule cannot get away while he is “thinking” about this trailer business. Once the mule figures out there is no escape to the right or left and backing up is not an option, he will eventually jump into the trailer. Never whip your
mule into the trailer. This has a negative effect on the mule and makes matters worse.
If you have a problem loader, in the near future work with this animal. It may take twenty minutes or so, but the results will be positive. Simply load and unload your mule a few times. Each time your mule gets in the trailer, reward with praise and cookies. Next, back him out slowly. Repeat several times and you will have a mule that is agreeable to loading and unloading.

Make sure you feed and water your animals on the longer trips. Transporting stock
is stressful. If you take the necessary precautions before leaving the barn then that lessens your chance of problems while on the road.

Note: Keep up with a maintenance schedule for your truck and trailer. Inspect your
trailer floor for possible needed repair, check your tires and have your wheel bearings packed once a year. Before leaving, check the tire pressure and test your brakes on your vehicle and your trailer. Keep a mileage log in your truck and rotate your truck and trailer tires when needed. Caution: Never overload your truck or trailer. Hauling livestock in an overloaded trailer is an accident waiting to happen. Keep your trailer level. A trailer traveling with too much weight on the rear axles will eventually cause problems. Too much weight on the tongue will be problematic too. Use a truck or vehicle that was made to haul a trailer of your size. Overloading your vehicle is not safe for you or your animals. Please be safe and enjoy your ride. ~Cindy K. Roberts

WINTER FEEDING FOR YOUR MULES
Water is just as important during the winter months as during the summer. Colic rates go up during the colder months, as water consumption goes down in the wintertime!  Check those water buckets every morning, and if you haven’t already, a tank heater is a great invention.  Mules cannot eat enough snow to meet their water requirements, so you must make sure to
provide plenty of water.

Provide a mineral salt block to help you mule keep a mineral balance.

Pay attention to the weather situation.  Horses and mules can tolerate very cold weather, as long as it is dry.  As soon as they get wet however from a snow or ice storm, their nice thick winter coats lose their insulation factor and the mule will be challenged to maintain their body temperature.  In very cold weather, mules do require extra calories to maintain their body
condition, so pay particular attention to body condition during cold snaps.  If you are concerned about providing extra warmth through feed, give your mules more hay.  The old wives’ tale about feeding corn for extra warmth is just that, a wives’ tale.  The process of digestion for corn (in the fore gut) is very quick, and provides very little warmth.  Hay requires a much slower process of digestion, and by the nature of the digestion (by microbes in the hind gut) it gives off more internal heat that the mule can make use of.

Finally, make sure not to confuse a hay belly with being fat.  Fat is laid down primarily over the top line of a mule – a cresty neck, the withers, a crease along the spine, and around the tail head – these are what the entire body condition scoring system is based on.  A large hay belly is a result most often of sagging muscles on both the topline and under the belly – not
so much from eating hay all day, but from the standing around all day while eating the hay.

• A mule focuses its eye by changing the angle of its head, not by changing the shape of the lens of the eye, as humans do.
• A mule's heart weighs about 10 pounds. 
• Mules use their facial expressions to communicate. Their moods can be gauged with the help of their nostrils, eyes and ears.
• Horses spend more energy lying down. In most cases, the foal is born at night, away from danger and prying eyes.

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ESTATE PLANNING FOR YOUR MULE - Since mules are a part of the family and develop a bond with their owners, it is advisable to have an estate plan filed.  Mules experience sadness, depression and anxiety when separated from their owner granted they had a routine and a strong bond with them.

Are Your Pets – horses, cats or dogs included in your estate plan? If you have horses, cats, dogs or other pets with long life spans, it might be time to include those pets in your estate planning.  Pets in estate plans are often thought of as an estate planning activity of the rich and famous, but many Americans now purchase pet health insurance, pet vacations, pet day care and many other luxuries for their beloved animals.

So, it’s only rational to make provisions for your pets in the event of your death. Estate planning for pets can range from the very simple to the very complex and from very inexpensive to more costly arrangements.

From simple to more complicated here are a few points to consider:
1) The Informal Memo Option -At the very least, consider putting together a memorandum to your executor and/or family members suggesting the disposition of your pets.  In this case, where no financial provision is being made for the pets and their care, it is often advisable to discuss the plans with the friends or relatives involved to ensure that they will, in fact, take on the responsibility. In any case, a memorandum that sets out instructions is still always a good idea. What something more complicated but more certain?

2) The Outright Gift Option – Consider a bequest to heirs or others who agree to care for one or more pets.  Remember, selection of such care takers is important where there is a flat and outright bequest sine there is no way of knowing how long the responsibility will last.  For that reason, and given the high cost of equestrian care, many horse and other pet owners
prefer a gift to a trust where the trustee can ensure that care givers get what they need to Providence continuing care at the right level anticipated by your trust and in your memorandum of instructions.

3) The Trust Option – First, be aware that not all states permit a trust for pets and animals. Pennsylvania and thirty one other states have, however, adopted such a law.  Next, review the issues such as: identifying your pets (the ASPCA site even suggests DNA identification), identifying a caretaker and trustee.  A memorandum to the trustee and care takers with specifics about your pets needs, and your desires for care can be vital. Finally, determine how much will be needed and who gets the balance at the death of your pet or pets.

QUOTES: 

"I never shot nobody I didn't have to."  John Wayne

Live a good, honorable life. Then when you get older and think back, you'll enjoy it a second time.

A lightning bolt generates temperatures five times hotter than those found at the sun's surface!  Lightning strikes about 6,000 times per minute on this planet!

There are more plastic flamingos in the U.S, than real ones

MULE NEWS FROM RICHMOND:

Only scattered details survive to tell us about Major Robert Williams, a Confederate Civil War veteran who returned to Ray County to build a prosperous life as a farmer, railroad man and mine owner.

MULE TIP:

SURVIVAL INFO: HOW TO SURVIVE A POISONOUS SNAKE ATTACK ON THE TRAIL 

Obviously, if you are bitten by a snake, you should seek medical attention immediately. The following should be referenced only if you cannot get yourself or the victim to medical clinic.

First of all, you should know that deaths from snakebites are rare...more than 50% of snakebite victims will have little or no poisoning and only about 25% of the victims suffer from serious systemic poisoning. Also, regardless of the animal, a bite wound can become infected from the bacteria in the animal's mouth. This local infection is responsible for a large part of the residual damage that results. It is important to know that the victim's state of mind plays a large part in their recovery. An excited or hysterical person will have increased circulatory activity, causing their body to absorb the toxins faster than normal. Always try to keep snakebite victims as calm as possible.

Before you begin to treat a snakebite, you need to determine whether or not the snake was poisonous. If you were not able to visually identify the snake, you can tell by the bite if the snake was poisonous.  The following signs/symptoms can help determine if the snake was

poisonous:

• Fang punctures at the site of the snakebite. One or two punctures (and sometimes three or

four) usually indicates a poisonous snake, especially if the other symptoms below are

present.

• Pain at the site of the bite.

• Swelling at the site of the bite within a few minutes or within 2 hours.

• Paralysis, weakness, twitching, and numbness. These are signs of neurotoxic venoms, and

usually appear 1.5 to 2 hours after a person is bitten.

If you are bitten by a poisonous snake, follow these "Do's and Don'ts":

Lie down with head slightly lower than the rest of the

body.

Do not move around. Doing so makes blood circulate faster thereby speeding up the spread of the venom. If making an incision, cut no deeper than the two layers of skin. Do not make any deep cuts at the bite site. Cutting will open capillaries, which creates a direct route into the blood stream for venom and infection.

Remove toxin as soon as possible by using a mechanical suction device or by squeezing. Do not use your mouth to suck out venom. The vessels under your tongue will absorb toxins almost immediately and carry them to the heart. Clean the site of the bite and hands extremely well. Do not use ice on a bite. If the bite is on an extremity, snuggly wrap the extremity halfway above the bite site, using material at least 2 inches wide.  Do not put your hands on your face as venom may be on them.

Remove watches, rings, bracelets, and any other restricting items. Do not use a tourniquet. 

Drink small amounts of fluid, preferably water. Do not drink alcoholic fluids.

Use aspirin or Tylenol for pain Do not use morphine or morphine derivatives.

(From Confidence Training For The Western Saddle Mule by Cindy K. Roberts)

The mule is a thinking machine. He thinks while he is on his feet, he thinks in his sleep and yes, he dreams. The mule gives much thought about how to do something and how not to do something, whichever is to his advantage. He is not interested in leaving his pasture pals to perform boring schooling or work. He doesn’t care to leave his comfortable surroundings for any menial task or activity. The mule is curious about his surroundings and anything new. He doesn’t like repetition and while learning something new, the mule has the capability getting it right the first time around. The trouble with this is few handlers and trainers are able to “perfect” the task at hand the first time around while working with a mule and more often will push for that perfect ride or perfect result. The mule would like to think that it is his idea. Since it is the mule’s idea, then that in effect, means the task has his stamp of approval on it. It’s a done deal, he likes it, move ahead with it. Remember to convey each lesson or task to him as though it were his idea. That means it has to be intriguing enough to keeping his interest and that is part of the deal, right? Everything has to be fun. No unpleasant classroom atmosphere, please. 

While training your mule, set him up to succeed during each lesson. To do this, you will teach the simplest exercise first. It would make sense to teach whoa from the walk first, then the trot, and so on. Praise will immediately follow and your mule will be pleased with himself. I call this creating “attaboys.”

Teach more than one exercise at a time in order to hold the mule’s interest. It would be very boring to the mule if you were to teach just one exercise. It would also be intense for the mule. This is because you, the trainer, would be striving for perfection before moving on. Therefore, teach several exercises that can be learned at the same time. For example, teaching the mule to back through poles as well as learning serpentines, bending exercises (circling), working through cones as well as tires will keep the mule's mind fresh and willing. Be sure that your exercises are at the same level of schooling to avoid confusing your mule. You wouldn't teach geometry before addition, right? Strive for perfection (without drilling your mule) before developing speed during any exercise. Teach each exercise at a slow speed. Only ask for more speed as the mule perfects the exercise. Sometimes it is better to work the same exercise three times or less, then practice it again the next day. Give the mule adequate time to think about the exercise. 

Be clear and concise in your training. Your cues must be repeated in the exact same

manner each time it is used. Inexperienced trainers have to think about how to apply a

training method. Later, it will become more natural and less thought is required. At

first, your cues may be more pronounced and as training progresses, your cues should

be more slight and subtle. This is where you will be asking for your mule to be

attentive to you and only you. You will have developed a relationship with your mule

and you will click. For this to develop, there cannot be any mistakes in your training or

confusion will be a result. This alone will cause your mule to develop a disinterest.

Cues must be closely related in time to the expected response. Remember, timing is so important when training the mule. The stimulus and the response must occur together or WITHIN A SECOND OR TWO, or the connection between the two is not made. The mule's brain does not have the capacity for a delayed response. If he did, he would be running for office. 

When giving a cue, ask for immediate response. 

Warm up the mule physically and mentally before starting a training session. There are a number of physiological changes in the mule's body when transcending from resting to working. A chemical change occurs which is why it is important to warm up your mule before any serious exertion. Professional athletes know this. It is best to repeat an exercise that the mule already knows, being careful at the same time not to sour him as well. After a few minutes of warming up, you can proceed to a new exercis e or work on perfect io n of an e xercis e. (Read the rest of the chapter in Confidence Training For The Western Saddle Mule by Cindy K. Roberts) Get the book! www.everycowgirlsdream.com/confidencetraining.html 

AFTER THE DUST SETTLES, WHAT NEXT?  What to do after a mule wreck or mishap.

Easy Fly Spray: You can mix seven parts water with one part citronella as a fly spray. It's not oily either. Mix it four parts water to one part citronella during the worst of the fly season. ___________________________________________________________________________________ 

Easy Fly Spray #2: You can take a bottle and fill it with white vinegar and two tablespoons of dish soap. Add water if you wish to dilute it a little. Shake and spray it on for a nice and very cheap fly spray

Concussion may occur with or without loss of consciousness.

A responsible adult should stay with the concussed person for at least the next 24 hours.